Ham cooked from pigs released into the New Forest during “pannage season” has been given the same protected status as pork pies from Melton Mowbray and Welsh leeks.
Now that New Forest pannage ham has full protected geographical indicator (PGI) designation across the entirety of the United Kingdom, consumers can be assured that the product they are purchasing is authentic and producers are protected against counterfeits.
The air-dried ham is created from pigs that were permitted to roam free in the New Forest during pannage – a centuries-old practice that allows people to release their animals to forage fallen acorns and beechmast for approximately two months each autumn.
WHAT IS THE DEFINITION OF PANNAGE?
Pannage is one of the New Forest’s common rights, permitting commoners to graze pigs in the woodland.
Historically, pannage allowed commoners to fatten their pigs for winter slaughter and salting.
In recent times, between 200 and 600 swine are turned out, as the number of swine held by commoners has decreased. In the 19th century, the population peaked at 6,000.
Commoners pay a nominal fee per pig they produce. Each pig is equipped with an ear tag and a nose ring to prevent injury from rooting.
New Forest National Park as the source
The pigs can safely consume as many acorns as they choose, so clearing the ground for the ponies and cattle, which can get poisoned if they consume too many.
Between 30 and 100 New Forest animals perish annually due to excessive acorn consumption.
The piglets’ diet of acorns, similar to that of pigs reared in Spain to produce Iberico ham, imparts a buttery, nutty flavor to the flesh, which is darker than conventional pork.
A century ago, as many as 6,000 pigs were released into the New Forest during the pannage season, although that number is currently closer to 600.
“New Forest pannage ham now carries the same protection as Melton Mowbray pork pies and Welsh leeks,” said food minister Mark Spencer.
‘Our traditional foods contribute to construct the backdrop of British life, and with a 1,000-year heritage New Forest pannage ham is a part of our national food story.’
The maker of charcuterie at Capreolus Fine Foods, David Richards, told the PA news agency that he was “delighted” with the designation.
“It is very thrilling. For ages, we have released pigs to feed in these woods and forests.
“The pigs adore acorns, which impart the most delicious, nutty, buttery flavor to the meat.”
It is identical to Iberico pork but is made in Hampshire. It seems unfathomable that no one knows about it.
Mr. Richards stated that the quantity of the product was highly limited, and he was only able to create 70 legs of the ham in the fall of 2017.
If we can convince the British public to purchase air-dried ham from acorn-fed pigs, perhaps farmers will be able to raise more pigs, he said.
The GI label is the British equivalent of the EU’s protected status program, which safeguards the geographical origin of foods and beverages like Parma ham and Champagne.
What is the status of protected geographical indicator (PGI)?
PGI (protected geographical indicator) is an EU quality regulation that recognizes the distinctive characteristics of specific food and beverage items.
PGI emphasizes the connection between a certain geographic place and the product’s name, where a particular quality, reputation, or other attribute is present.
At least one stage of production, processing, or preparation takes place in the region for the majority of items. In the case of wine, this means that at least 85 percent of the grapes must be grown entirely in the region where the wine is produced.
The Westfalischer Knochenschinken PGI ham is prepared in Westphalia, Germany, following time-honored methods, however the meat used does not come completely from animals born and raised in that region.
European Union Commission
»Pannage ham ranks alongside Melton Mowbray pork pies and Welsh leeks«